Showing posts with label basic crochet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label basic crochet. Show all posts

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Working on made to measure child's jacket

This week end I began working on a made to measurements, crocheted child's cardigan, jacket. This could also be a vest. After some experimenting I chose to use a size I crochet hook and half double crochet stitches for the main fabric.

I am using Red Heart Super Saver 'Sugar & Spice' ; which is one of my favorites for children and toddlers as it goes well with denim clothing and is suitable for either a boy or a girl.

Crochet fabric is often thicker and sturdier making it perfect for outer wear when a close stitch patten such as half double or single crochet is used.

You are welcome to make use of my working notes:
( Now that I have a lap top computer it can be used to jot down notes and measurments in either Note Pad or Word Pad. These can then be saved in a document folder. A tape recorder can also be used to take notes. Perhaps I will also see if there is a way to take verbal notes using the pc microphone?)

WORKING NOTES FOR HDC JACKET / VEST:
1-8-1-5-1-16-1-5-1-8

To make raglan increase: hdc-dc-hdc; and then one next increase row work increase in the DC in each increase group.

Chain 47
sc in 8, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 16, inc, sc 5, inc, sc in last 8
chain 2 ( not worked into as a stitch ); hdc in ea sc and inc in each DC ( 4 increases)
repeat above row until needed sleeve opening circumference is reached...less about one inch
form sleeve openings/armholes:
hdc in each stitch to first DC work 2 DC in the DC; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in next Dc; hdc across back to nest DC; work 2 DC in the Dc; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in Dc and hdc in each remaining stitch.
work body of jacket in rows of hadc until desired length

NOTES:
Work sleeves onto sleeve openings in the round; turning each round; shape by changing to size smaller hook 3 rounds from cuff; work sc cuff; or work sc in blo and made cuff that can be turned up.



THE JACKET I AM PRESENTLY MAKING:
This is a heavier cardigan/jacket; hdc is used for warmth and to create a more solid fabric.
8 hdc rows (sleeve section measures 8-inches)
on row 9 I made a hdc increase before each hdc- Dc - hdc increase.

I may not have enough of the sugar and spice yarn on hand to complete the jacket. Will know when it comes time to do the sleeves.

Also need to decide whether to do a zip up front or button up?

(When this is finished I will write out a complete recipe and share a photo)

Thursday, April 26, 2007

How to create a basic neck down crochet raglan










A FROM SCRATCH SQUARE YOKE (INFANT Size)

This neck-down yoke works for a variety of layette garments including cardigans, jackets, kimonos, vests and dresses.


When making a neck down yoke the basic idea is to work increase rows until the shoulder section measures to equal
the proper armhole depth or sleeve/armhole opening width (circumference).


I have chosen to use an F hook and soft, DK wieght yarn (Bernat Softee Baby). The smaller hook produces a neater,
daintier stitch which looks more in keeping with how small young infants are.

begining chain
1- 7- 1- 4- 1- 14- 1- 4- 1- 7

(total of 41 chain stitches)

The 1 at the bginning represents the chain that will be gobbled up when the first sc is made. (I decided to begin
the yoke with a nice, neat sc row.)


There are 7 chains for each front; 4 for each shoulder, and 14 for the garment back.

Each 1 in between the numbers represents a chain where a 3 sc increase will be worked.

Basically the back needs to be double the size of the front, and each shoulder is about half the size of each front.

Because I need this to have a soft feel and also need it to work up more quickly I have chosen use double crochet as the main stitch.

For a nicer looking edge the chain 2 at the beginning of each row will not be worked into or counted as stitch.

(This also creates a fabric edge that is more stable and easier to work stitches into if need be.)

A 3 DC increase is worked in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.

NOTE ABOUT INCREASES:
I prefer the 3 dc group as I end up with a more tailored look and a slightly sloping shoulderline which fits nicely
- and there are no holes which at times will detract from the design. Using the 3dc increase is more organic ;
meaning it blends in and grows naturally within the fabric.

When working single crochet rows one may use different types of increases; for example a group of 3 sc; or 5 sc or sc - chain 1 - sc.

On double crochet increase rows you might choose to use a group of 3 or 5 DC; or a shell of 2 DC - chain 1 - 2DC;
or DC -chain 1 - DC.

You might sometimes place an even row worked ( with no increasing) in between the increase rows.

And then another time you might begin with, for example, a 5 DC increase and then change at some point to a 3 DC increase.

The closed group increases produce a more solid raglan line while the open shell decreases will result in a raglan line defined by a slanting row of holes or eyelets.

Garment body:

When it comes time to begin the body; chain 2 as usual and DC across to the first 3 DC increase group. Work 2 DC in
the center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches and work 2 DC in the center stitch of the next increase group;
Dc across back working 2 DC in the center stitch of the next 3 DC group; again skip the shoulder stitches and work
2 DC in the center stitch and then DC to end.You will notice that this row will ( in this case) add about one inch
to the sleeve opening circumference.

I worked 8 increase rows on yoke of this little sweater and then began the body portion.

Needed to work 12 rows on the body and then one row of sc at the hem ( on right side).

SUGGESTED NECK FINISHIING & TIES:Chain 33 and then sc around neck edge ( sc in each begining chain loop); skip one loop on either side of each
shoulder section; chain 34; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; slip stitch in each sc along
neck edge and then in each of the first 33 chains, fasten off. Knot ends and trim. If desired a second set of ties
can be made on the edges of the 8th or 9th DC row down from the neck edge.


SLEEVE SUGESTIONS:

FOR VEST: attach yarn on right side at bottom of arm hole and work one round of single crochet (27 sc in this case)

FOR SAQUE OR CARDIGAN: work sc as above and then work rounds of DC for desired sleeve length. Decrease on last
round by working a decrease at the begining or end of the round. Edge with a round of single crochet. Join and turn
each new round so that the sleeve will retain the same alternating row texture as the yoke and body.

OTHER FINISHING SUGGESTIONS:
When making a cardigan I sometimes work a single crochet button band on one side of the front and a corresponding
sc button hole band on the other.
Crocheted or purchased appliques can be sewn on.

NOTE ABOUT JACKETS:
When crocheting a jacket or vest meant to be worn as an outer garment keep in mind that these will need to be loose
enough and with arm holes and sleeves that will fit comfortably over clothing. A regular cardigan or vest can be
made to fit more closely.



Using different hook sizes or a different yarn ( perhaps baby, sport or worsted weight will result in a different
look and will affect the finished size.) Also, if your tension is tighter or looser than mine this will also
produce a different gauge.Using an F hook and DK wt. baby yarn my gauge here is: 5 DC rows per 2 inches and 5 DC
stitches per one inch.


Anyway, this is basically how I work out basic, plain DC "neck down" raglan garments of all sizes... with
variations on the theme (of course!).
If you are unsure of yourself you might wish to begin by creating vests, cardigans and jackets for a baby doll.

***************************

I copied and pasted the above notes from Notepad on my pc and they came out a bit odd. Need to remember to use Word Pad instead!



Simple Crochet Baby Sweaters..



Usually I crochet basic little baby, toddler or child's cardigans or jackets 'from scratch' based on a basic double or single crochet yoke. I decided to go looking on line for patterns that look similar to my own recipes and found quite a few. All appear to be very nice, basic patterns. I have used only two of them.

I used one (SLK saque) to crochet a cute, short sleeve cardigan for one of our great nieces. I used an H hook and Bernat Softee Baby - which is DK weight and slightly thicker than the recommended sport weight - as I needed a larger garment. Added a few rows to the body of the garment and chained 32 in place of 50 for the ties. Basically this is very like many other double crochet sweaters (cardigans..etc.). The instructions are clear and decreases are well placed for shaping the short sleeves and garment body. I did need to sew up gaps left at each underarm. Good beginner pattern.
Here are a few more free patterns for simple, basic baby sweaters:

CUTE AS A BUTTON BABY SWEATER
Has photo.
Beginner pattern.
J Hook
Sport Yarn
Size 3 to 6 months (can be increased)
http://www.crochetpatterncentral.com/patterns/cute_as_a_button_baby_sweater.php


BABY IT's COLD OUTSIDE
Has photos; including how to assemble photos.
Adapted from an older knit pattern
Lion Brand Homespun Chunky Yarn
2 buttons
H hook
http://www.crochetme.com/Feb_Mar_2005/patt_baby_sweater.html


BETH'S BABY SWEATER
Has photo.
Worsted Weight yarn
Size H crochet hook
http://bundlesoflove.org/CrochetedBabySweater

DONNA'S CROCHETED SWEATER
(I have used this pattern and rate it as an advanced beginner pattern. This makes a small infant size sweater.)
Has photo
Baby yarn
G hook
http://www.touchinglittlelives.org/donnasweater.html


DONNA'S NEWBORN BABY SWEATER
Has photo
F hook
Baby yarn
http://www.touchinglittlelives.org/donnasweater1.html


LIL' DARLIN BABY SWEATER
Has photo
3 to 6 months size
H hook
Caron Simply Soft
http://bythehook.blogdrive.com/archive/185.html





Tuesday, April 24, 2007

A Just Right Crochet Cloche Hat


Last evening I used my HDC (Half Double Crochet) hat recipe to tailor a hat that fits me just right. Not too tight or too loose. I'd call this a cloche (close fitting) hat. I designed my original HDC hat to be a versatile starting place and to show off what multi colored (variegated ) yarn can do; for this hat I used Red Heart's "Stars and Stripes" (red, white and blue). This should fit most ladies and is a nice "chemo cap" when made with a soft yarn.

Here are my working notes:

H hook
Red Heart Super Saver or Classic or similar type yarn

Work HDC hat, medium size, total of 16 rounds.
Chain one and work 2 rounds of single crochet,
Change to size G hook and work one more round of sc.
Join in first sc and fasten off.
This is also pretty in plain colors.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

Basic Crocheted Ladies Beret


Using a size H crochet hook work same as half double crochet hat up to the increase round for a small hat.

Work even for a total of 12 hdc rounds.

Chain one and work one round of single crochet.

Change to a size G hook and work 2 more rounds of single crochet.

On next round of sc skip over 4 stitches around evenly spaced ( equal distance apart).

Try on hat to see how it fits. (This will help you decide wether or not to change to a size F hook for last two rounds.)

Work 2 more rounds of sc.

Since I need a tighter fit I change to the size F hook. This beret is one of my favorites. It fits nicely and is a becoming style for an older lady ( or a young lady!). When we are older wearing hats help to hold in needed body heat.. did you know we can loose about 80 per cent of our bady heat right through the top of our heads?!

This is a basic pattern that can be made using different types and colors of yarn, worsted wieght cotton or wool for different looks and to match different outfits.

Basic Crocheted Neck Scarf




A crocheted neck scarf is simply a narrow length of crocheted fabric.

Dressy scarves meant to be worn as a decorative accessory are typically smaller. These are often crocheted with light weight and/or specialty yarns. Open, lacy stitch patterns are the most popular for an accent scarf.

Mufflers (winter neck scarves) are meant to be warm and are best made with stitches ( and hook size) that create a more solid fabric. Crochet mufflers are thicker than knit ones and require more wool or yarn. Alternating sc and dc rows work well and produce and attractive fabric. Plain dc, a closed shell stitch, hdc or dc alternated with rows of sc also produces a nice scarf. I like to use a hook that is large enough to produce a softer, more supple fabric without the stitches being too open (or full of holes).

All you need to do is to chain to the desired width and work till the scarf is long enough. To work a particular stitch pattern it will be needful to know how many multiples of a number to chain - or weather you need an even or uneven number to work on.