Thursday, May 3, 2007

Project Notebook On My Computer :-)




One of the nice things about having both a personal computer and a digital camera to use is being able to photograph finished knitting, sewing and crochet projects. I can then open word, add the picture and type in notes ( or the instructions and notes if it is one of my own recipes). These can be kept in a folder in Documents (or My Documents) and can be saved on a CD as well.


The dress shown here was made using a Mary Maxim Kit which I am very pleased with. The kit included more than enough baby yarn to complete the project as well as ribbon and buttons. The buttons were tiny ones and I needed to use much larger ones ( which I happened to have in my button tin.)


The shoe booties are made from a older Annie's Attic booklet which was reissued a while back...I was glad as I had loaned my out and it was never returned. I use a G hook and follow the instructions for the small size to come out with medium (about 4 1/4) inch sole.

Wednesday, May 2, 2007

Crocheting a stretchy infant tee shirt


This green shirt with the flower attached is version one. If you crochet tightly you may wish to use a size larger hook when chaining for the neck opening. This crochet recipe is easy to adjust by adding to the starting chain and adjusting neck opening size. You can use a cotton tee shirt as a measurement guide for different sizes. This needs to be worked with a finer, soft yarn such as DK or Baby Sport.
(The same idea can be used to create a pull over long or short sleeve sweater using worsted wt yarn, however, it will be much heavier and the fabric will be thicker. )
Here are my working notes:
One piece infant tee shirt
My Working Notes

Appliqu├ęs, such as a crocheted flower or bunny, are optional

I hook and DK wt. baby yarn

CHAIN 44

Sc across (43)

Pattern Rows:
1.) begin with sc and then alternate DC and Sc across; end with a sc.
2.) Chain 2 (not used as a stitch) begin with DC and the alternate sc and Dc across ending with a DC.
VERSION ONE:

Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures four-inches including base sc row.
( 12 pattern rows)
Fasten off

Join yarn with ss in first loop on opposite side of base sc row.
Chain one and sc in same loop and in next 10; chain 20 and miss 20 loops; sc in 21st loop and in each loop to end.

8 for each short sleeve

To work body of shirt work in pattern across center stitches (need odd number for sweater stitch)


Finishing:
With right sides together, using same yarn, sew up sides and sleeves. Place yarn needle into and through sides of stitches. Do not sew too tightly. Weave in loose ends.
Finishing neck on version one only; sc loosely around neck edge placing one sc in each shoulder seam.

Version 2:

Chain 44
Sc 43
Shoulders and neck opening:
Sc in 12 and fasten off
In 2O the Sc join yarn with a slip stitch; chain one; sc in same and it next 11;
Turn and chain one; Sc in 12; Chain 19; sc in 12 sc on opposite shoulder.
Turn and chain one; sc in each sc and in each chain across.
From here on work ‘sweater stitch’ until piece measures 4 inches from center shoulder (neck) line.
Fasten off. (11 pattern rows )


Body of shirt:
Count 2 stitches on each side and mark 9th with scrap of yarn or a bobby pin.

Mark right side of shirt with a yarn bow.

With right side facing attach yarn with slip stitch in first loop of starting chain.
Work in pattern the same as first sleeve section.
Fasten off and mark 9th stitch on each side as before.

Work in pattern across center stitches until desired length (5 or 5 ½ or 6 inches from under arm)

Monday, April 30, 2007

Finished HDC Child's Jacket !!


Finished my week end crochet from scratch project and I am very pleased with the outcome!

Did the worked on sleeves differently than planned in my notes - so that they are nicely tapered. Now to take a photo.

This will be even warmer worked in wool or a wool blend. Would like to donate these to the Children In Common knitting project, however, I don't know that they will accept crocheted garments?

My husband suggests that I make a matching hat. Good idea :-)

Here are my continued working notes:

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THe JACKET I AM MAKING:
8 hdc rows (sleeve section measures 8-inches)on row 9 I made a hdc increase before each hdc- Dc - hdc increase.

Worked 18 hdc row on body of jacket.

End with 2 sc, slip stich across on right side, ss on side of front tthen sc up side, 3 sc in corner, sc around
neck edge, 3 sc in corner, sc down front, ss at end, turn, ss in next st and sc up in each sc on side; turn, chain
one and sc back down, ss in last, turn, chain one; sc in each sc,ss in firs sc on neck edge, turn chain one and sc
down, ss in last and fasten off. This completes a firm button band.
Mark where button holes should be made.
Button hole band. Attach yarn on right side at bottom of other front. Work sc tightly up side; chain 2 and miss two
stitches for each button hole, Turn, chain one and change to smaller (H) hook; sc in each stitch, 1 sc over each
chain 2. Turn and ss in each sc up to neck (LOOSELY); ss loosely around neck and down button band.
Sleeves; I Hook ; 33 sc on right side; then work hdc rounds. I decided to not turn the rounds.On second hdc round
work hdc decrease over last 2 stitches.On 6th hdc round again decrease over last 2. On 11th round again decrease
over last 2. At end of 14th round decrease again. At end of 16th round decrease again. Work 2 more rounds. Change
to smaller H hook and work 2 rounds of sc and then a round of slip stitch.
(This recipe will also create a nice, short. 3/4 or long sleeved sleeve shirt when worked with sport or baby yarn.)
The hdc rounds spiral and leave a decorative diagonal trail which appears on the opposite sides of each sleeve. This is not unattractive and does not detract from the looks of the jacket. Gives those who look to criticize something to point out :-)

The sleeve can be folded up to form a cuff making it easy to change between a 3/4 length and long sleeve.

Now to properly write out the recipe (pattern).

Sunday, April 29, 2007

Working on made to measure child's jacket

This week end I began working on a made to measurements, crocheted child's cardigan, jacket. This could also be a vest. After some experimenting I chose to use a size I crochet hook and half double crochet stitches for the main fabric.

I am using Red Heart Super Saver 'Sugar & Spice' ; which is one of my favorites for children and toddlers as it goes well with denim clothing and is suitable for either a boy or a girl.

Crochet fabric is often thicker and sturdier making it perfect for outer wear when a close stitch patten such as half double or single crochet is used.

You are welcome to make use of my working notes:
( Now that I have a lap top computer it can be used to jot down notes and measurments in either Note Pad or Word Pad. These can then be saved in a document folder. A tape recorder can also be used to take notes. Perhaps I will also see if there is a way to take verbal notes using the pc microphone?)

WORKING NOTES FOR HDC JACKET / VEST:
1-8-1-5-1-16-1-5-1-8

To make raglan increase: hdc-dc-hdc; and then one next increase row work increase in the DC in each increase group.

Chain 47
sc in 8, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 16, inc, sc 5, inc, sc in last 8
chain 2 ( not worked into as a stitch ); hdc in ea sc and inc in each DC ( 4 increases)
repeat above row until needed sleeve opening circumference is reached...less about one inch
form sleeve openings/armholes:
hdc in each stitch to first DC work 2 DC in the DC; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in next Dc; hdc across back to nest DC; work 2 DC in the Dc; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in Dc and hdc in each remaining stitch.
work body of jacket in rows of hadc until desired length

NOTES:
Work sleeves onto sleeve openings in the round; turning each round; shape by changing to size smaller hook 3 rounds from cuff; work sc cuff; or work sc in blo and made cuff that can be turned up.



THE JACKET I AM PRESENTLY MAKING:
This is a heavier cardigan/jacket; hdc is used for warmth and to create a more solid fabric.
8 hdc rows (sleeve section measures 8-inches)
on row 9 I made a hdc increase before each hdc- Dc - hdc increase.

I may not have enough of the sugar and spice yarn on hand to complete the jacket. Will know when it comes time to do the sleeves.

Also need to decide whether to do a zip up front or button up?

(When this is finished I will write out a complete recipe and share a photo)

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Pink Matinee Jacket For A Baby Girl


This is a little matinee jacket created for a great niece. It is a loose fitting . 3/4 sleeve jacket. The garment chest measures 22 inches and the armhole circumference is 8-inches. The ribbons are tied on over a sc and then secured on the wrong side of the jacket with needle and sewing thread.


I thought some of you might appreciate my sharing the process of crocheting from scratch.


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Baby Girls' Crocheted Matinee Jacket

H, K and G Hooks
DK wt baby yarn

SINGLE CROCHET SQUARE YOKE:
(This is the basic method for making a square, raglan type single crochet yoke)

With G hook chain 41 (sc yoke is worked with size G hook)

Row One: sc in 7; 3 sc increase, sc in 4; 3sc increase; sc in 14; 3 sc increase; sc in 4; 3sc increase; sc in last 7; turn and chain one

Rows 2 to 12: sc in each sc and work a 3 sc increase in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.

FORM ARMHOLES/SLEEVE OPENINGS:

Single Crochet up to the center sc of the increase group; miss the shoulder/sleeve stitches; sc in center sc of next increase group; sc across back placing last sc in center of increase group; miss shoulder stitches; again sc in center stitch of increase group; sc in remaining sc.

Count the sc stitches you now have to work the body of the garment on.

BODY OF GARMENT:

This is where you decide what stitch pattern you wish to use. Next you need determine if your chosen stitch pattern is based on an odd or an even number of stitches.

Let's say you have an even number and need an odd number - in this case you can rip out (frog) the last sc row (where you formed the armholes) to the center of the back and work an increase there.

Another choice is to place increases, evenly spaced that will adjust the stitch count. This will at the same time add some fullness. This can be done by working a sc increase row or by going back and re-doing the previous ( arm hole forming) row.

You might also decide to work a "beading row" to thread ribbon through at some point; perhaps below the arm hole forming row. To create a beading row you work either sc or dc ; chain one and miss one stitch; and then make another sc or dc in the next across the row ending with a chain one, miss one, sc or dc in last.

After 7th DC cluster row on body do not cut yarn; sc across hem and up side of front ( with right side of garment facing); change to SMALLER SIZE G hook when sc yoke is reached; sc around neck; down other side of yoke; changing back to LARGER SIZE H hook when DC Cluster rows are reached, join in first sc and fasten off.)

I have chosen to use alternate DC with 3DC cluster stitches in the little jacket I am making. (need odd number of stitches - 83)

SLEEVES: These are worked in the round right on the garment; the same as in the crochet Baby Boys' Matinee Jacket. (30 sc around sleeve on right side and then change to H hook and then turn and work same stitch pattern as body; Chain 3 for first DC ; alternate 3 DC cluster and DC; end with a 3 DC cluster and join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain 3; turn and chain one. After 4th DC cluster round work one more sc row; CHANGE TO SMALLER SIZE G HOOK; work one more cluster round; change to SIZE F HOOK; sc crochet around ( 30 sc); join in first sc; do not turn; work sc decrease over first 2 sc; sc around; work another sc decrease over last two sc; join in first sc and fasten off.)

WORKING NOTES:
After working the first pattern stitch row I decided it would look better if a larger, size H, hook was used at this point. Also to make the stitch pattern come out right I needed to skip on stitch at the end of the first row ( the cluster stitches are thick and the missed stitch does not show).

Also because this stitch pattern shows up best on the "wrong side" I am working one more sc row with the G hook before starting the fancy stitches and will work a row of sc in between each fancy row.

When working the sleeves it helps to count the stitches as they are worked on each sc round.

FINISHING: Weave in loose ends. Add ribbon or crocheted ties at neck and at last sc row before body of garment. Button loops and buttons can be used in place of ties.

Friday, April 27, 2007

Baby Boy Crochet Matinee Jacket Pattern


This little jacket is prettier in person than in the photo. This was created for a baby boy in our family circle and was inspired by matinee jackets I have knit. Ribbon ties can be used in place of the crocheted ones. I often use either the Bernat Baby Softee DK wt. yarn or the Red Heart Baby Soft which is a baby sport wt. Both are soft, come in a good variety of colors and are in a price range that is considerate of those of us who must really pinch our pennies, nickles and dimes. These are excellent quality acrylic yarns. Also, they are locally available and can be ordered on line as well.


Here is my recipe. You are invited, as always, to make your own changes.



Bernat Baby Softee DK wt.baby yarn
Size G & F Hooks

G hook is for the yoke, body and sleeves.

F hook is for the sleeve edging, ties and neck edging.


With G hook Chain 41

ROW 1
:sc in 7, 3sc inc, sc in 4; 3 sc inc., sc in 14., 3sc inc., sc in 4, 3 sc inc., sc in last 7

ROW 2: sc across working 3 sc increase in center st of ea previous 3 sc inc,

ROW 3: Chain 2 and then DC in ea sc making a 5 DC inc. in center st of ea 3 sc inc. on previous row

ROW 4: Chain 2 and then Dc in ea DC making a 3 DC inc. in center DC of ea 5 dc inc. group.

ROW 5 to 8 : Chain 2 and then DC in ea DC making a 3 DC inc. in center of each 3 DC inc. group.

ROW 9: Arm hole row; Chain 2 and then Dc in each DC to first 3 DC inc; work 2 DC in center stitch; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in center stitch of 3 DC inc.; DC in ea Dc to next 3 DC inc.; again work 2 DC in center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in center of 3 DC inc.; DC to end of row.

BEGIN BODY OF GARMENT:

ROW 10 to 19: Chain 2 and then Dc in each DC to end of row. Do not fasten off at end of last DC row. Turn and chain one to start edging.

(OR repeat ROW 10 until desired length.)

Scalloped edging:
Chain one; sc in first stitch; “chain 2 and miss next stitch; sc in next”.
Repeat between “and “.
Fasten off. Weave loose end in neatly on wrong side.

TIES AND NECK EDGING:
Change to a size F crochet hook.

Chain 36. (leaving a 4-inch tail)
Attach chain to bottom of first DC below the 2 sc at the neck.
Work 4 sc up to the corner (place end of hook through sides of stitches and not around them).
Work 3 sc in first beginning chain loop to turn the corner.
Sc in each chain loop around neck; working 3 sc in last chain loop.
Work 4 sc down side and one in bottom of first DC.
Chain 36 and fasten off, again leaving a 4-inch tail (OR chain 37; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; sc in each sc around neck and slip stitch in each chain) fasten off, knot ends and trim.

SLEEVES:

Join yarn with a slip stitch bottom of sleeve opening; chain one; 3 sc in side of DC and sc in each st around;3 sc along remaining edge; join with ss in first sc;(28 stitches; just be sure to have the same number of stitches on each sleeve)

Chain 3 for first DC and DC in each sc around; join with ss in 3rd chain of first sc; Continue to chain 3 and work DC rounds until there are 7 rounds on the sleeve. Join and turn as before; chain one CHANGE TO F HOOK and sc in each stitch around. Fasten off.

Work second sleeve the same way.
NOTE: I use a lot of plain vanilla DC and agree with my daughter who proclaimed DC to be a 'very pretty' stitch all by itself. Double crochet compliments both plain colored yarn or a print, speckled or multi color yarn.. and is a stitch that helps to show off the yarn. Also, a well made DC hat, cardigan, jacket, vest and so on will show off the baby rather than the garment. It is the baby who should first receive the compliments and attention :-)

Thursday, April 26, 2007

How to create a basic neck down crochet raglan










A FROM SCRATCH SQUARE YOKE (INFANT Size)

This neck-down yoke works for a variety of layette garments including cardigans, jackets, kimonos, vests and dresses.


When making a neck down yoke the basic idea is to work increase rows until the shoulder section measures to equal
the proper armhole depth or sleeve/armhole opening width (circumference).


I have chosen to use an F hook and soft, DK wieght yarn (Bernat Softee Baby). The smaller hook produces a neater,
daintier stitch which looks more in keeping with how small young infants are.

begining chain
1- 7- 1- 4- 1- 14- 1- 4- 1- 7

(total of 41 chain stitches)

The 1 at the bginning represents the chain that will be gobbled up when the first sc is made. (I decided to begin
the yoke with a nice, neat sc row.)


There are 7 chains for each front; 4 for each shoulder, and 14 for the garment back.

Each 1 in between the numbers represents a chain where a 3 sc increase will be worked.

Basically the back needs to be double the size of the front, and each shoulder is about half the size of each front.

Because I need this to have a soft feel and also need it to work up more quickly I have chosen use double crochet as the main stitch.

For a nicer looking edge the chain 2 at the beginning of each row will not be worked into or counted as stitch.

(This also creates a fabric edge that is more stable and easier to work stitches into if need be.)

A 3 DC increase is worked in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.

NOTE ABOUT INCREASES:
I prefer the 3 dc group as I end up with a more tailored look and a slightly sloping shoulderline which fits nicely
- and there are no holes which at times will detract from the design. Using the 3dc increase is more organic ;
meaning it blends in and grows naturally within the fabric.

When working single crochet rows one may use different types of increases; for example a group of 3 sc; or 5 sc or sc - chain 1 - sc.

On double crochet increase rows you might choose to use a group of 3 or 5 DC; or a shell of 2 DC - chain 1 - 2DC;
or DC -chain 1 - DC.

You might sometimes place an even row worked ( with no increasing) in between the increase rows.

And then another time you might begin with, for example, a 5 DC increase and then change at some point to a 3 DC increase.

The closed group increases produce a more solid raglan line while the open shell decreases will result in a raglan line defined by a slanting row of holes or eyelets.

Garment body:

When it comes time to begin the body; chain 2 as usual and DC across to the first 3 DC increase group. Work 2 DC in
the center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches and work 2 DC in the center stitch of the next increase group;
Dc across back working 2 DC in the center stitch of the next 3 DC group; again skip the shoulder stitches and work
2 DC in the center stitch and then DC to end.You will notice that this row will ( in this case) add about one inch
to the sleeve opening circumference.

I worked 8 increase rows on yoke of this little sweater and then began the body portion.

Needed to work 12 rows on the body and then one row of sc at the hem ( on right side).

SUGGESTED NECK FINISHIING & TIES:Chain 33 and then sc around neck edge ( sc in each begining chain loop); skip one loop on either side of each
shoulder section; chain 34; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; slip stitch in each sc along
neck edge and then in each of the first 33 chains, fasten off. Knot ends and trim. If desired a second set of ties
can be made on the edges of the 8th or 9th DC row down from the neck edge.


SLEEVE SUGESTIONS:

FOR VEST: attach yarn on right side at bottom of arm hole and work one round of single crochet (27 sc in this case)

FOR SAQUE OR CARDIGAN: work sc as above and then work rounds of DC for desired sleeve length. Decrease on last
round by working a decrease at the begining or end of the round. Edge with a round of single crochet. Join and turn
each new round so that the sleeve will retain the same alternating row texture as the yoke and body.

OTHER FINISHING SUGGESTIONS:
When making a cardigan I sometimes work a single crochet button band on one side of the front and a corresponding
sc button hole band on the other.
Crocheted or purchased appliques can be sewn on.

NOTE ABOUT JACKETS:
When crocheting a jacket or vest meant to be worn as an outer garment keep in mind that these will need to be loose
enough and with arm holes and sleeves that will fit comfortably over clothing. A regular cardigan or vest can be
made to fit more closely.



Using different hook sizes or a different yarn ( perhaps baby, sport or worsted weight will result in a different
look and will affect the finished size.) Also, if your tension is tighter or looser than mine this will also
produce a different gauge.Using an F hook and DK wt. baby yarn my gauge here is: 5 DC rows per 2 inches and 5 DC
stitches per one inch.


Anyway, this is basically how I work out basic, plain DC "neck down" raglan garments of all sizes... with
variations on the theme (of course!).
If you are unsure of yourself you might wish to begin by creating vests, cardigans and jackets for a baby doll.

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I copied and pasted the above notes from Notepad on my pc and they came out a bit odd. Need to remember to use Word Pad instead!