Thursday, May 3, 2007
Wednesday, May 2, 2007
My Working Notes
Appliqués, such as a crocheted flower or bunny, are optional
I hook and DK wt. baby yarn
Sc across (43)
1.) begin with sc and then alternate DC and Sc across; end with a sc.
2.) Chain 2 (not used as a stitch) begin with DC and the alternate sc and Dc across ending with a DC.
Repeat these 2 rows until piece measures four-inches including base sc row.
( 12 pattern rows)
Join yarn with ss in first loop on opposite side of base sc row.
Chain one and sc in same loop and in next 10; chain 20 and miss 20 loops; sc in 21st loop and in each loop to end.
8 for each short sleeve
To work body of shirt work in pattern across center stitches (need odd number for sweater stitch)
With right sides together, using same yarn, sew up sides and sleeves. Place yarn needle into and through sides of stitches. Do not sew too tightly. Weave in loose ends.
Finishing neck on version one only; sc loosely around neck edge placing one sc in each shoulder seam.
Shoulders and neck opening:
Sc in 12 and fasten off
In 2O the Sc join yarn with a slip stitch; chain one; sc in same and it next 11;
Turn and chain one; Sc in 12; Chain 19; sc in 12 sc on opposite shoulder.
Turn and chain one; sc in each sc and in each chain across.
From here on work ‘sweater stitch’ until piece measures 4 inches from center shoulder (neck) line.
Fasten off. (11 pattern rows )
Body of shirt:
Count 2 stitches on each side and mark 9th with scrap of yarn or a bobby pin.
Mark right side of shirt with a yarn bow.
With right side facing attach yarn with slip stitch in first loop of starting chain.
Work in pattern the same as first sleeve section.
Fasten off and mark 9th stitch on each side as before.
Work in pattern across center stitches until desired length (5 or 5 ½ or 6 inches from under arm)
Monday, April 30, 2007
Did the worked on sleeves differently than planned in my notes - so that they are nicely tapered. Now to take a photo.
This will be even warmer worked in wool or a wool blend. Would like to donate these to the Children In Common knitting project, however, I don't know that they will accept crocheted garments?
My husband suggests that I make a matching hat. Good idea :-)
Here are my continued working notes:
THe JACKET I AM MAKING:
8 hdc rows (sleeve section measures 8-inches)on row 9 I made a hdc increase before each hdc- Dc - hdc increase.
Worked 18 hdc row on body of jacket.
End with 2 sc, slip stich across on right side, ss on side of front tthen sc up side, 3 sc in corner, sc around
neck edge, 3 sc in corner, sc down front, ss at end, turn, ss in next st and sc up in each sc on side; turn, chain
one and sc back down, ss in last, turn, chain one; sc in each sc,ss in firs sc on neck edge, turn chain one and sc
down, ss in last and fasten off. This completes a firm button band.
Mark where button holes should be made.
Button hole band. Attach yarn on right side at bottom of other front. Work sc tightly up side; chain 2 and miss two
stitches for each button hole, Turn, chain one and change to smaller (H) hook; sc in each stitch, 1 sc over each
chain 2. Turn and ss in each sc up to neck (LOOSELY); ss loosely around neck and down button band.
Sleeves; I Hook ; 33 sc on right side; then work hdc rounds. I decided to not turn the rounds.On second hdc round
work hdc decrease over last 2 stitches.On 6th hdc round again decrease over last 2. On 11th round again decrease
over last 2. At end of 14th round decrease again. At end of 16th round decrease again. Work 2 more rounds. Change
to smaller H hook and work 2 rounds of sc and then a round of slip stitch.
(This recipe will also create a nice, short. 3/4 or long sleeved sleeve shirt when worked with sport or baby yarn.)
The hdc rounds spiral and leave a decorative diagonal trail which appears on the opposite sides of each sleeve. This is not unattractive and does not detract from the looks of the jacket. Gives those who look to criticize something to point out :-)
The sleeve can be folded up to form a cuff making it easy to change between a 3/4 length and long sleeve.
Now to properly write out the recipe (pattern).
Sunday, April 29, 2007
I am using Red Heart Super Saver 'Sugar & Spice' ; which is one of my favorites for children and toddlers as it goes well with denim clothing and is suitable for either a boy or a girl.
Crochet fabric is often thicker and sturdier making it perfect for outer wear when a close stitch patten such as half double or single crochet is used.
You are welcome to make use of my working notes:
( Now that I have a lap top computer it can be used to jot down notes and measurments in either Note Pad or Word Pad. These can then be saved in a document folder. A tape recorder can also be used to take notes. Perhaps I will also see if there is a way to take verbal notes using the pc microphone?)
WORKING NOTES FOR HDC JACKET / VEST:
To make raglan increase: hdc-dc-hdc; and then one next increase row work increase in the DC in each increase group.
sc in 8, inc, sc 5, inc, sc 16, inc, sc 5, inc, sc in last 8
chain 2 ( not worked into as a stitch ); hdc in ea sc and inc in each DC ( 4 increases)
repeat above row until needed sleeve opening circumference is reached...less about one inch
form sleeve openings/armholes:
hdc in each stitch to first DC work 2 DC in the DC; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in next Dc; hdc across back to nest DC; work 2 DC in the Dc; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in Dc and hdc in each remaining stitch.
work body of jacket in rows of hadc until desired length
Work sleeves onto sleeve openings in the round; turning each round; shape by changing to size smaller hook 3 rounds from cuff; work sc cuff; or work sc in blo and made cuff that can be turned up.
THE JACKET I AM PRESENTLY MAKING:
This is a heavier cardigan/jacket; hdc is used for warmth and to create a more solid fabric.
8 hdc rows (sleeve section measures 8-inches)
on row 9 I made a hdc increase before each hdc- Dc - hdc increase.
I may not have enough of the sugar and spice yarn on hand to complete the jacket. Will know when it comes time to do the sleeves.
Also need to decide whether to do a zip up front or button up?
(When this is finished I will write out a complete recipe and share a photo)
Saturday, April 28, 2007
Baby Girls' Crocheted Matinee Jacket
H, K and G Hooks
DK wt baby yarn
SINGLE CROCHET SQUARE YOKE:
(This is the basic method for making a square, raglan type single crochet yoke)
With G hook chain 41 (sc yoke is worked with size G hook)
Row One: sc in 7; 3 sc increase, sc in 4; 3sc increase; sc in 14; 3 sc increase; sc in 4; 3sc increase; sc in last 7; turn and chain one
Rows 2 to 12: sc in each sc and work a 3 sc increase in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.
FORM ARMHOLES/SLEEVE OPENINGS:
Single Crochet up to the center sc of the increase group; miss the shoulder/sleeve stitches; sc in center sc of next increase group; sc across back placing last sc in center of increase group; miss shoulder stitches; again sc in center stitch of increase group; sc in remaining sc.
Count the sc stitches you now have to work the body of the garment on.
BODY OF GARMENT:
This is where you decide what stitch pattern you wish to use. Next you need determine if your chosen stitch pattern is based on an odd or an even number of stitches.
Let's say you have an even number and need an odd number - in this case you can rip out (frog) the last sc row (where you formed the armholes) to the center of the back and work an increase there.
Another choice is to place increases, evenly spaced that will adjust the stitch count. This will at the same time add some fullness. This can be done by working a sc increase row or by going back and re-doing the previous ( arm hole forming) row.
You might also decide to work a "beading row" to thread ribbon through at some point; perhaps below the arm hole forming row. To create a beading row you work either sc or dc ; chain one and miss one stitch; and then make another sc or dc in the next across the row ending with a chain one, miss one, sc or dc in last.
After 7th DC cluster row on body do not cut yarn; sc across hem and up side of front ( with right side of garment facing); change to SMALLER SIZE G hook when sc yoke is reached; sc around neck; down other side of yoke; changing back to LARGER SIZE H hook when DC Cluster rows are reached, join in first sc and fasten off.)
I have chosen to use alternate DC with 3DC cluster stitches in the little jacket I am making. (need odd number of stitches - 83)
SLEEVES: These are worked in the round right on the garment; the same as in the crochet Baby Boys' Matinee Jacket. (30 sc around sleeve on right side and then change to H hook and then turn and work same stitch pattern as body; Chain 3 for first DC ; alternate 3 DC cluster and DC; end with a 3 DC cluster and join with slip stitch in top of beginning chain 3; turn and chain one. After 4th DC cluster round work one more sc row; CHANGE TO SMALLER SIZE G HOOK; work one more cluster round; change to SIZE F HOOK; sc crochet around ( 30 sc); join in first sc; do not turn; work sc decrease over first 2 sc; sc around; work another sc decrease over last two sc; join in first sc and fasten off.)
After working the first pattern stitch row I decided it would look better if a larger, size H, hook was used at this point. Also to make the stitch pattern come out right I needed to skip on stitch at the end of the first row ( the cluster stitches are thick and the missed stitch does not show).
Also because this stitch pattern shows up best on the "wrong side" I am working one more sc row with the G hook before starting the fancy stitches and will work a row of sc in between each fancy row.
When working the sleeves it helps to count the stitches as they are worked on each sc round.
FINISHING: Weave in loose ends. Add ribbon or crocheted ties at neck and at last sc row before body of garment. Button loops and buttons can be used in place of ties.
Friday, April 27, 2007
Bernat Baby Softee DK wt.baby yarn
Size G & F Hooks
G hook is for the yoke, body and sleeves.
With G hook Chain 41
ROW 1 :sc in 7, 3sc inc, sc in 4; 3 sc inc., sc in 14., 3sc inc., sc in 4, 3 sc inc., sc in last 7
ROW 2: sc across working 3 sc increase in center st of ea previous 3 sc inc,
ROW 3: Chain 2 and then DC in ea sc making a 5 DC inc. in center st of ea 3 sc inc. on previous row
ROW 4: Chain 2 and then Dc in ea DC making a 3 DC inc. in center DC of ea 5 dc inc. group.
ROW 5 to 8 : Chain 2 and then DC in ea DC making a 3 DC inc. in center of each 3 DC inc. group.
ROW 9: Arm hole row; Chain 2 and then Dc in each DC to first 3 DC inc; work 2 DC in center stitch; skip shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in center stitch of 3 DC inc.; DC in ea Dc to next 3 DC inc.; again work 2 DC in center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches; work 2 DC in center of 3 DC inc.; DC to end of row.
BEGIN BODY OF GARMENT:
ROW 10 to 19: Chain 2 and then Dc in each DC to end of row. Do not fasten off at end of last DC row. Turn and chain one to start edging.
(OR repeat ROW 10 until desired length.)
Chain one; sc in first stitch; “chain 2 and miss next stitch; sc in next”.
Repeat between “and “.
Fasten off. Weave loose end in neatly on wrong side.
TIES AND NECK EDGING:
Change to a size F crochet hook.
Chain 36. (leaving a 4-inch tail)
Attach chain to bottom of first DC below the 2 sc at the neck.
Work 4 sc up to the corner (place end of hook through sides of stitches and not around them).
Work 3 sc in first beginning chain loop to turn the corner.
Sc in each chain loop around neck; working 3 sc in last chain loop.
Work 4 sc down side and one in bottom of first DC.
Chain 36 and fasten off, again leaving a 4-inch tail (OR chain 37; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; sc in each sc around neck and slip stitch in each chain) fasten off, knot ends and trim.
Join yarn with a slip stitch bottom of sleeve opening; chain one; 3 sc in side of DC and sc in each st around;3 sc along remaining edge; join with ss in first sc;(28 stitches; just be sure to have the same number of stitches on each sleeve)
Chain 3 for first DC and DC in each sc around; join with ss in 3rd chain of first sc; Continue to chain 3 and work DC rounds until there are 7 rounds on the sleeve. Join and turn as before; chain one CHANGE TO F HOOK and sc in each stitch around. Fasten off.
Work second sleeve the same way.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
This neck-down yoke works for a variety of layette garments including cardigans, jackets, kimonos, vests and dresses.
When making a neck down yoke the basic idea is to work increase rows until the shoulder section measures to equal
the proper armhole depth or sleeve/armhole opening width (circumference).
I have chosen to use an F hook and soft, DK wieght yarn (Bernat Softee Baby). The smaller hook produces a neater,
daintier stitch which looks more in keeping with how small young infants are.
1- 7- 1- 4- 1- 14- 1- 4- 1- 7
(total of 41 chain stitches)
The 1 at the bginning represents the chain that will be gobbled up when the first sc is made. (I decided to begin
the yoke with a nice, neat sc row.)
There are 7 chains for each front; 4 for each shoulder, and 14 for the garment back.
Each 1 in between the numbers represents a chain where a 3 sc increase will be worked.
Basically the back needs to be double the size of the front, and each shoulder is about half the size of each front.
Because I need this to have a soft feel and also need it to work up more quickly I have chosen use double crochet as the main stitch.
For a nicer looking edge the chain 2 at the beginning of each row will not be worked into or counted as stitch.
(This also creates a fabric edge that is more stable and easier to work stitches into if need be.)
A 3 DC increase is worked in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.
NOTE ABOUT INCREASES:
I prefer the 3 dc group as I end up with a more tailored look and a slightly sloping shoulderline which fits nicely
- and there are no holes which at times will detract from the design. Using the 3dc increase is more organic ;
meaning it blends in and grows naturally within the fabric.
When working single crochet rows one may use different types of increases; for example a group of 3 sc; or 5 sc or sc - chain 1 - sc.
On double crochet increase rows you might choose to use a group of 3 or 5 DC; or a shell of 2 DC - chain 1 - 2DC;
or DC -chain 1 - DC.
You might sometimes place an even row worked ( with no increasing) in between the increase rows.
And then another time you might begin with, for example, a 5 DC increase and then change at some point to a 3 DC increase.
The closed group increases produce a more solid raglan line while the open shell decreases will result in a raglan line defined by a slanting row of holes or eyelets.
When it comes time to begin the body; chain 2 as usual and DC across to the first 3 DC increase group. Work 2 DC in
the center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches and work 2 DC in the center stitch of the next increase group;
Dc across back working 2 DC in the center stitch of the next 3 DC group; again skip the shoulder stitches and work
2 DC in the center stitch and then DC to end.You will notice that this row will ( in this case) add about one inch
to the sleeve opening circumference.
I worked 8 increase rows on yoke of this little sweater and then began the body portion.
Needed to work 12 rows on the body and then one row of sc at the hem ( on right side).
SUGGESTED NECK FINISHIING & TIES:Chain 33 and then sc around neck edge ( sc in each begining chain loop); skip one loop on either side of each
shoulder section; chain 34; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; slip stitch in each sc along
neck edge and then in each of the first 33 chains, fasten off. Knot ends and trim. If desired a second set of ties
can be made on the edges of the 8th or 9th DC row down from the neck edge.
FOR VEST: attach yarn on right side at bottom of arm hole and work one round of single crochet (27 sc in this case)
FOR SAQUE OR CARDIGAN: work sc as above and then work rounds of DC for desired sleeve length. Decrease on last
round by working a decrease at the begining or end of the round. Edge with a round of single crochet. Join and turn
each new round so that the sleeve will retain the same alternating row texture as the yoke and body.
OTHER FINISHING SUGGESTIONS:
When making a cardigan I sometimes work a single crochet button band on one side of the front and a corresponding
sc button hole band on the other.
Crocheted or purchased appliques can be sewn on.
NOTE ABOUT JACKETS:
When crocheting a jacket or vest meant to be worn as an outer garment keep in mind that these will need to be loose
enough and with arm holes and sleeves that will fit comfortably over clothing. A regular cardigan or vest can be
made to fit more closely.
Using different hook sizes or a different yarn ( perhaps baby, sport or worsted weight will result in a different
look and will affect the finished size.) Also, if your tension is tighter or looser than mine this will also
produce a different gauge.Using an F hook and DK wt. baby yarn my gauge here is: 5 DC rows per 2 inches and 5 DC
stitches per one inch.
Anyway, this is basically how I work out basic, plain DC "neck down" raglan garments of all sizes... with
variations on the theme (of course!).
If you are unsure of yourself you might wish to begin by creating vests, cardigans and jackets for a baby doll.
Usually I crochet basic little baby, toddler or child's cardigans or jackets 'from scratch' based on a basic double or single crochet yoke. I decided to go looking on line for patterns that look similar to my own recipes and found quite a few. All appear to be very nice, basic patterns. I have used only two of them.
I used one (SLK saque) to crochet a cute, short sleeve cardigan for one of our great nieces. I used an H hook and Bernat Softee Baby - which is DK weight and slightly thicker than the recommended sport weight - as I needed a larger garment. Added a few rows to the body of the garment and chained 32 in place of 50 for the ties. Basically this is very like many other double crochet sweaters (cardigans..etc.). The instructions are clear and decreases are well placed for shaping the short sleeves and garment body. I did need to sew up gaps left at each underarm. Good beginner pattern.
SLK BABY SAQUE
CUTE AS A BUTTON BABY SWEATER
Size 3 to 6 months (can be increased)
BABY IT's COLD OUTSIDE
Has photos; including how to assemble photos.
Adapted from an older knit pattern
Lion Brand Homespun Chunky Yarn
BETH'S BABY SWEATER
Worsted Weight yarn
Size H crochet hook
DONNA'S CROCHETED SWEATER
(I have used this pattern and rate it as an advanced beginner pattern. This makes a small infant size sweater.)
DONNA'S NEWBORN BABY SWEATER
LIL' DARLIN BABY SWEATER
3 to 6 months size
Caron Simply Soft
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
My Fancy Red Hat
Red Heart Super Saver or Classic 4 ply worsted wt. acrylic yarn
Size G Crochet hook
Donot join rounds, use scrap of contrasting color yarn or bobby pin to mark start of each round.
ROUND ONE:Chain 6 and join with a slip stitch to make a circle.
Chain one and work 10 sc in circle.
ROUND TWO: 2 sc in each sc around (20 sc)
ROUND THREE: sc in one and then increase in the next around.
ROUND FOUR: sc in two and then increase in the next around.
ROUND FIVE: work even (sc around with out any increases)
ROUND SIX: sc in 3 and then increase in the next.
ROUND SEVEN: work even
ROUND EIGHT: sc in 4 and then increase in next around.
ROUND NINE: work even
ROUND TEN: sc in 5 and then increase in next around
ROUND ELEVEN: work even
ROUND TWELVE: sc in 6 and then increase in next around
ROUND THIRTEEN: work even
ROUND FOURTEEN: sc in7 and then increase in next around
ROUND FIFTEEN: work even
ROUND SIXTEEN: on this round only; sc in the BLO (back loop only) of each sc around
SIDES OF CROWN:
ROUND 18: work even
ROUND 19: work even
ROUND 20: work even
ROUND 21: work even
ROUND 22: work even
ROUND 23: work even
ROUND 24: working in BLO (this round only) sc in 7 and then increase in next around
ROUND 25: work even
ROUND 26: work even
ROUND 27: sc in 4 and then increase in next; and then at end of round sc in 3 and inc in last.
ROUND 28: sc in 2 and then increase in next: and then at end of round sc in one and inc in last.
ROUND 29: work even
ROUNDS 30 to 35: work even
V STITCH TRIM:
Double Crochet in same stitch.
*Skip one stitch.
Work a V ST in next ( dc-chain one-dc).
Repeat between * and * around.
End with chain one and join with a slip stitch in 3rd chain of begining chain 4.
Weave in loose ends on inside of hat as invisibly as possible.
(Pull on the yarn "tail" on inside of hat to cinch up the starting ring.)
Feel free to make any changes. The brim can be worked differently. Also the crown can be used as a base for a different hat design.
Anne , April24, 2007
Tuesday, April 24, 2007
One of the JOYS of knowing how to crochet is realizing that, once we understand and can apply the basics, we have most of the tools we need to create and write out our own crochet recipes (patterns).
Anyone who can crochet; is able to read and follow patterns and who is familiar with crochet terminology can create (design) her or his own original crochet projects.
An original project is not an exact copy of some one else's pattern where you have simply changed the hook size or type of yarn used. It needs to be your own idea or your own version or revision of a basic pattern or idea.
An original pattern can contain elements found in other patterns and combined in such a way as to produce an original version. For example you might take a basic cardigan pattern and add worked in pockets, a fancy stitch pattern and a collar of your own design.
Which brings me to the subject of good, plain basic patterns or styles. These are what new designs are based on. Using crochet ( and knitting ) patterns can be compared to cooking with recipes. A good basic recipe gets passed around and many cooks make thier own changes and substitutions - which results in new versions. Just think .. over the years hundreds of versions of meatloaf, tuna casserole and oatmeal cookies have evolved. And, as with crochet or knitting some of the versions, by pure chance, are nearly the same as some one else's tuna casserole, meatloaf or oatmeal cookie. This is because we are all working with and recombining most of the same ingredients. The morale of this story is do not ever assume that because some one else's tuna casserole, meatloaf or oatmeal cookie tastes a lot like your Auntie Myrtle's special version that some one has stolen her recipe.
Here are my working notes:
Red Heart Super Saver or Classic or similar type yarn
Work HDC hat, medium size, total of 16 rounds.
Chain one and work 2 rounds of single crochet,
Change to size G hook and work one more round of sc.
Join in first sc and fasten off.
Monday, April 23, 2007
a size F or G crochet hook
a big eyed , blunt end ed yarn needle for sewing up
one 3.5 ounce skein of Red Heart Classic worsted weight (or similar type wool or yarn)
row one: single crochet in each chain ( 25 single crochet)
row two: (heel shaping) single crochet in 11 and them work two single crochet (increase) in next three. Single crochet in last 11. (28 single crochet) Mark center stitch (14th single crochet) with scrap yarn, a bobby pin or crochet stitch marker).
Turn. Chain One.
Row Three: ** single crochet in first stitch and double crochet in next** repeat until you reach the marked stitch. Work both a double and a single crochet in this same stitch. *double crochet in next stitch and single crochet in the next one* .
Repeat between * and * to end of row.
Row Four: Chain two ( the chain two serves as your first double crochet) . single crochet in second stitch ** double crochet in next and single crochet in next**.
Repeat between ** and ** to end of row.
Turn and chain one. This chain one does not count as a stitch.
Row Five: **single crochet in first stitch and double crochet in next.**
Repeat between ** and ** across row.
From here on repeat rows four and five alternately for pattern until piece is 8 1/2 inches.
Measure length along one side (rather than in the middle) with a ruler.
Toe decrease row: work single crochet decreases across row.
(or you can sc in one stitch and skip the next across)
Work a second decrease row the same way. Leaving about a 20 inch "tail" cut yarn and fasten off.
Thread tail into big eyed yarn needle. weave through single crochets in last decrease row . pull up very tightly and secure. Now hold the edges above the toe together and sew up for three inches.
Sew up heel. For best shaping and fit sew up the heel so that it looks like an upside down T.
neatly weave in and secure loose ends.
Turn slipper right side out.
FINISHING: On outside of slipper join yarn on one side of the heel seam and work two rounds of single crochet.
SIZING NOTE: These directions are for an average ladies foot ( shoe size 8 to 9). It is easy to adjust the size . For a child or a lady with small feet make the slipper 7 or 7/2 inches
To check for size I stop part way and sew up the heel. the slipper can then be "tried on" to adjust the length. I write down what size each family member needs. We do not wear shoes in the house, so, I make slippers in all sizes for family and for guests. I use Red Heart yarn and they wear and launder well:)
EMBELISHING: You can make a crocheted or twisted cord tie to thread around, or even use ribbon. A fluffy pom pom, ribbon or crocheted tie bow , or a crocheted Irish rose or flower make them special. You can also crochet a fancier or deeper edging.
I like to add crochet ties on either side of the instep ( rather like ‘Mary Jane’s ) by tying on the yarn and chaining 30 on each side.
I prefer to use a size F hook when making these for myself.
This pattern is a gift from me for your personal use or to share with friends only. Patterns can not be sold.
Sunday, April 22, 2007
Work even for a total of 12 hdc rounds.
Chain one and work one round of single crochet.
Change to a size G hook and work 2 more rounds of single crochet.
On next round of sc skip over 4 stitches around evenly spaced ( equal distance apart).
Try on hat to see how it fits. (This will help you decide wether or not to change to a size F hook for last two rounds.)
Work 2 more rounds of sc.
Since I need a tighter fit I change to the size F hook. This beret is one of my favorites. It fits nicely and is a becoming style for an older lady ( or a young lady!). When we are older wearing hats help to hold in needed body heat.. did you know we can loose about 80 per cent of our bady heat right through the top of our heads?!
This is a basic pattern that can be made using different types and colors of yarn, worsted wieght cotton or wool for different looks and to match different outfits.
Adjust the size by increasing or decreasing the number of starting chain stitches.
Button loops or holes and buttons can be used in place of the ties. Either one button in the center or one at either side of the flap.
Any type of yarn can be used.
Decorate with appliques, beads (etc.) or leave plain
You can be the designer!
Red Heart Super Saver yarn
3 sc in first chain, sc in 23 ch across and then 3 sc in end (24th) ch. working on the other side of the chain sc n 23 ch loops. Begin to work in rounds. Use a scrap of yarn to mark the first sc of each sc round.
Work 4 rounds of sc followed by 2 rounds of DC.
To begin the DC rounds join with a slip stitch in top of stitch ( or Ch 3) of previous round.)
Work two more rounds of sc.
Continue to alternate the 2 rounds of DC and 2 rounds of sc until there are 3 bands of DC. End with two rounds of sc. Fasten off
Flatten bag and then re-attach yarn and work 7 rows of sc for flap.
Ties: are made by attaching yarn and chaining 30 tightly; knot ends of ties and trim off excess yarn.
(To make ties I attach yarn to the bag with a slipstitch and then secure the tail on the inside of the bag by knotting it after chains are completed.)
I attach the yarn to the bag on the 3rd dc from the edge on the 5th row of DC; and in the 3rd sc in from each side of the flap.
Dressy scarves meant to be worn as a decorative accessory are typically smaller. These are often crocheted with light weight and/or specialty yarns. Open, lacy stitch patterns are the most popular for an accent scarf.
Mufflers (winter neck scarves) are meant to be warm and are best made with stitches ( and hook size) that create a more solid fabric. Crochet mufflers are thicker than knit ones and require more wool or yarn. Alternating sc and dc rows work well and produce and attractive fabric. Plain dc, a closed shell stitch, hdc or dc alternated with rows of sc also produces a nice scarf. I like to use a hook that is large enough to produce a softer, more supple fabric without the stitches being too open (or full of holes).
All you need to do is to chain to the desired width and work till the scarf is long enough. To work a particular stitch pattern it will be needful to know how many multiples of a number to chain - or weather you need an even or uneven number to work on.
This is a good way to make use of left over wool or yarn by working in stripes.
The finished scarf looks nice if the first stitch of each row is slipped rather than knit. Or you can knit the first stitch and slip the second at the beginning of each row.
Fringe is optional.
When I crochet a hat in the round I make certain to leave a 4 to 6 inch tail when starting the begining ring and then after a few rounds I give that tail a good hard yank to cinch the hole closed. The remainder is then woven in on the inside of the hat and trimmed.
All hats that are crocheted in the round are based on the same basic templete; begin at the center and work increase rounds untill crown is desired circumference. You then contiunue to work rounds with out making increases and stop when your hat is long enough. Even fancier, floppy brimed, roll brim, tams and visored caps start out life the same way.
I hope you will use my basic recipes to create your own!
Worsted weight kitchen cotton
Main color and small amount for shell edging
(A cone of the main color and a ball of the edging color will make several dish cloths)
Size G crochet hook
Large eye, blunt wool needle (for weaving in loose ends)
Small, sharp needlework scissors
Chain stitch (ch st)
Double Crochet (DC)
Slip stitch (sl st)
Ch 1 (chain one)
FO (fasten off)
Beg ch (beginning chain)
WS (wrong side)
RS (right side)
This project is worked in rounds.
Note: I got the idea for this from an old round, thread dish cloth that I still have. This version works up quicker and makes a nice gift or exchange item.
Leaving about a 4-inch “ tail” make a slip knot to place over your crochet hook.
Round One: Chain four. (The first three chains here count as the first dc.) Work 12 DC in the fourth ch from the hook. (Work over the yarn tail as well.) Join with a sl st in the top of the beg ch 4. [13 DC]
Round Two: Ch 3 and work one DC in the same place as the ch 3(ch 3 is counted and used as a st on each rnd) Inc in each DC around (this means to work 2 dc in ea st). Join as before.
Round Three: Ch 3 and one DC in same place as ch 3; DC in next st: **Inc in next; DC in next** (Repeat between ** and** around). Join as before.
Round Four: Ch 3 and one DC in same place; one DC in ea of next two DC; **Inc in next; DC in ea of next two around. Join.
Round Five: Ch 3 and one DC in same place; DC in ea of next three DC; **Inc in next; DC in next three** (Repeat between ** and ** around)
Round Six: ch 3 and one DC in same place; DC in ea of next four DC; ** Inc in next; DC in ea of next four** ( Repeat between ** and ** around). Join as before.
Round Seven: ch 3 and one DC in same place; DC in ea of next five DC; ** Inc in next; DC in next five** (Repeat between ** and ** around). NOTE: CHANGE TO EDGING COLOR BY PULLING IT THROUGH LAST 2 LOOPS OF LAST DC ON THIS ROUND.) Cut off old color leaving abut 3 or 4 inches. ( I knot the “tails” of the old and new color together on the WS and then weave them in. The knot will not show and will be more secure.)
Round Eight: EDGING; Ch one and sc in same place ; sk next st and work a **shell
( DC – ch 1 – DC – ch 1 – DC) in next st; sk next st; sc in next; sk next st ** Repeat between ** and ** to last st. Sk last st and sl st in first sc made.
Fasten Off (FO): pull up about a 2 or 3 inch loop. Cut yarn and pull through. You will have about a four inch tail.
Weave in and secure loose ends.
Use same color yarn as used for edging.
Method one: Leaving a four-inch “tail” chain ten or twelve tightly. Fasten off leaving a four-inch tail. Using your crochet hook, and working with the RS facing, pull one tail through one each side of round one. Knot tails together 2 or 3 times on the worn side. Cut off excess yarn.
Method two: Leaving a four inch tail, and with RS facing, work a single crochet ( or a sl st) over one side of round one. Chain 10 or 12 tightly and sc (or sl st) around opposite side of round one. Pull “tails” through and knot to secure on WS. Clip off excess yarn.
August of 2006
~~This hat fits a big man ! For medium size omit the last increase round and for a smaller hat omit the last two increase rounds and work a total of 12 rounds.~~
Notes: ch2 to begin rounds. Do not use or count the ch 2 as a stitch. To increase (inc) work 2 dc in the same stitch. On each increase round you will work a given number of dc and then inc in the next stitch.
Ring (chain 3 and work 12 Dc in third chain from hook)
Round 1: inc around to 24
Round 2: inc in e/o (every other stitch)
Round 3: dc 2/inc (double crochet in 2 and then increase in next)
Round 4: dc 3/inc
Round 5: dc 4/inc
Round 6: dc 5/inc
Rounds 6 to 12 work even ( 12 rounds total)
turn, ch one
sc in first DC, make sc decrease, continue to sc around making 3 more evenly spaced decreases (77 sc)
sc in blo (back loop only) around
work 3 rows of hdc for cuff
edge loosely with slip stitch
H or G hook (G makes a tighter hat which I prefer)
variegated, print or multi color worsted weight acrylic yarn
ring ( chain 2 and work 10 sc in second chain from hook)
join and chain 2 ( does not count as a stitch)
Round 1: hdc inc around to 20
Round 2: hdc inc in every other
Round 3: hdc 2 inc
Round 4:hdc 3 inc
Round 5: work even hdc around
Round 6: hdc 4 inc
hdc 5 inc (small)
hdc 6 inc (medium)
hdc 7 inc (large)
Work even to desired length
End with one or more rows of sc
Turn and work round of sc in back loops.
Ch 2 and work 3 or more rounds of hdc (or how ever many needed for desired cuff depth.) End with round of sc, reverse sc or slip stitch.
These are quick, pretty and easy to crochet and work very well.Pot holders MUST be made with cotton. Acrylic yarns will melt!Using an I/9 crochet hook and holding 2 strands of worsted wt. kitchencotton together chain 19. Single chain in first ch from the hk and in ea chto the end.Turn and ch one. From here on continue to turn and ch one at the end of ea row and sc inthe blo (back loop only) of each previous sc.When the pot holder is square (as long as it is wide) continue to crochet an edging all around:Edging: 3 sc in ea cnr (corner) and *sc-ch1-sc* along ea of the 4 sds (sides).Fasten off and tie each of the double tails securely. Snip off excess loose ends.Annie Barnhart pahb 2004
NOTE: To make a hanging loop chain how ever many you need ( 8 or so) at one corner.
Optional Edging: work plain single crochet or half double crochet around.
31 January 2006
NOTE: This is my favorite cotton pot holder. Try using one strand of a light colored yarn and one dark. These wash and wear well and make nice, useful gifts.
Saturday, April 21, 2007
Onsie and Booties ( has a photo)http://www.craftown.com/baby/pat18.htm
Basic People Puppets
Size G crochet hook
Blunt, large eye wool needle
Small amounts of worsted wt. Classic yarn
Yarn scraps for embroidering features
These are quick, easy and fun to make. With a bit of imagination the variety and variations are pretty much endless. We keep these in a basket to bring out when children come to visit. Even the grown up children have fun playing with these. Pa calls these our “Theatrical Troupe” .
Working notes and tips:
Change yarn color to represent the puppet’s face (head) and clothing.
When changing yarn color pull new color through last two loops of stitch and then cut off the old color. Knot twice and then trim the tail ends. The knot will be on the inside of the puppet and will not show.
To fasten off yarn slip stitch in next stitch. Cut yarn and remove hook. Pull yarn through. (Don’t pull through the loop.) Weave in loose end on inside of puppet.
To make hair thread yarn through wool needle. Insert needle under a crochet round and bring through on the other side of the round. Pull through desired length of yarn ; cut yarn. Knot once or twice. You will have 2 stands of yarn hair.
To make braids pull yarn through to make long strands (about 7 inches each). Knot yarns and then continue knotting. Trim ends to about ¼ inch. Tie yarn or ribbon bows on ends of braids (optional).
A pencil box makes a nice storage container for your miniature theatrical troupe.
Work in rounds. Don’t join rounds. Use yarn scrap to mark the first stitch of each new round.
1.) Chain two and work 4 single crochet in the second chain.
2.) Increase ( 2 sc) in each of the 4 sc. [8 sc]
3.) Increase (Inc) in first sc,;sc in each of next 2 sc; inc in next sc; sc in next 2; inc in next and sc in last. [11 sc]
4.) Work even on 11 sc.
5.) Continue to work even on the 11 sc until puppet is desired size.
Lady Wearing A Full Dress:
Head: work 5 rounds
Dress: Work one round even in dress color. And then increase in every other sc on next round [ 7 rounds}
Slip stitch into firs sc of next round and chain 2 (for first double crochet). Double crochet in each sc around and join with a slip stitch in the second chain of the chain 2.
Hem: Chain one and sc in the first dc ** chain one and sc in next sc ** Repeat between ** around. Fasten off .
Tie a yarn bow on front of dress.
Head: 4 rounds in skin color
Gown: 4 rounds in color of choice ( or pink for girl and blue for boy)
Hem: sc, ch 1, sc picot trim ( same as on lady’s dress)
Girl with long braids:
Head: 4 rounds
Dress: change to pink yarn . Work in back loops around on round 5.
Round 6: slip stitch into next SC and chain two for first DC; **2 DC in next sc; one Dc in next** Repeat between ** around. Two Dc in last SC. Join in top of chain 2.
Round 7: chain two and DC in each DC around. Join as before.
HEM: Chain one and work 2 sc in same place; SC in next and inc in next around. Fasten off.
Braids : Cut two 14 inch lengths of yarn in hair color. Thread needle . Insert threaded needle under one side of round one and bring out on the other side. Pull yarn through until the two ends are even. Remove needle and knot yarn over the round. Continue making knots and then trim and fray the ends. ( To fray all you do is to separate the yarn plies with your fingers.)
Work in Rounds:
1.) Chain 2 and work 5 sc in second chain.
2.) Increase in first sc; sc in next 4 sc; Inc; sc in last 4.
3.) Work even on 12 sc.
4.) Slip stitch around and fasten off.
Hat with brim:
Work first three rounds of basic hat.
Working in the back loops of each sc : inc in each of the 12 sc around on round 4. Fasten off.
NOTE: Use the two hat patterns as a starting place to create you own.
Christmas hat: red yarn with white trim and a a top knot of white yarn
Top knot on hats is made the same as yarn hair, Separate ply for a frizzy look ( I like to do this with hair).
HAVE FUN WITH THIS!!
28 August 2006
Simple Double Crochet Cold Weather Caps
(Infant and Child's Sizes)
I hook and 4 ply worsted weight yarn
Last 3 or 4 or so DC rounds are turned up to form a ear warmer cuff.
Starting at crown of hat:
*Form ring by wrapping yarn twice around index finger and then pulling a loop of the working yran through with your crochet hook. **Chain 2 and then work 18 DC in the ring. Join in the top of the first Dc with a slip stitch and then chain 2 to begin the second round. Pull yarn tail to tighten circle. The ch 2 is not used or counted as a stitch.
(*Or chain 4 or 5, join to form a ring , chain 2 and work 18 DC in the ring.)
(**If you prefer you have my permission to chain 3 for the first DC rather than 2.)
Second Round: DC in same place as the ch 2 and then increase by making 2 DC in the next stitch; Dc in next and inc in next around. Join as before and chain 2. (=26 Dc)
Third Round: DC in two and increase in next stitch around. Join as before. Chain 2. (=36 DC)
Fourth Round: DC in 3 and increase in next around. Join and chain 2.
(=45 stitches )
Stop here for infant's cap (15 inch circumference). Continue to work even for ten more rounds (or until desired length).
Fifth Round: DC in 4 and increase in next stitch around. (=55 stitches)
Stop here for toddler's size ( 18 inch circumference) cap. Continue to work even for 10 or 11 more rounds on 55 stitches.
Wednesday, April 18, 2007
She was right.