A FROM SCRATCH SQUARE YOKE (INFANT Size)
This neck-down yoke works for a variety of layette garments including cardigans, jackets, kimonos, vests and dresses.
When making a neck down yoke the basic idea is to work increase rows until the shoulder section measures to equal
the proper armhole depth or sleeve/armhole opening width (circumference).
I have chosen to use an F hook and soft, DK wieght yarn (Bernat Softee Baby). The smaller hook produces a neater,
daintier stitch which looks more in keeping with how small young infants are.
1- 7- 1- 4- 1- 14- 1- 4- 1- 7
(total of 41 chain stitches)
The 1 at the bginning represents the chain that will be gobbled up when the first sc is made. (I decided to begin
the yoke with a nice, neat sc row.)
There are 7 chains for each front; 4 for each shoulder, and 14 for the garment back.
Each 1 in between the numbers represents a chain where a 3 sc increase will be worked.
Basically the back needs to be double the size of the front, and each shoulder is about half the size of each front.
Because I need this to have a soft feel and also need it to work up more quickly I have chosen use double crochet as the main stitch.
For a nicer looking edge the chain 2 at the beginning of each row will not be worked into or counted as stitch.
(This also creates a fabric edge that is more stable and easier to work stitches into if need be.)
A 3 DC increase is worked in the center sc of each 3 sc increase group.
NOTE ABOUT INCREASES:
I prefer the 3 dc group as I end up with a more tailored look and a slightly sloping shoulderline which fits nicely
- and there are no holes which at times will detract from the design. Using the 3dc increase is more organic ;
meaning it blends in and grows naturally within the fabric.
When working single crochet rows one may use different types of increases; for example a group of 3 sc; or 5 sc or sc - chain 1 - sc.
On double crochet increase rows you might choose to use a group of 3 or 5 DC; or a shell of 2 DC - chain 1 - 2DC;
or DC -chain 1 - DC.
You might sometimes place an even row worked ( with no increasing) in between the increase rows.
And then another time you might begin with, for example, a 5 DC increase and then change at some point to a 3 DC increase.
The closed group increases produce a more solid raglan line while the open shell decreases will result in a raglan line defined by a slanting row of holes or eyelets.
When it comes time to begin the body; chain 2 as usual and DC across to the first 3 DC increase group. Work 2 DC in
the center stitch; skip over the shoulder stitches and work 2 DC in the center stitch of the next increase group;
Dc across back working 2 DC in the center stitch of the next 3 DC group; again skip the shoulder stitches and work
2 DC in the center stitch and then DC to end.You will notice that this row will ( in this case) add about one inch
to the sleeve opening circumference.
I worked 8 increase rows on yoke of this little sweater and then began the body portion.
Needed to work 12 rows on the body and then one row of sc at the hem ( on right side).
SUGGESTED NECK FINISHIING & TIES:Chain 33 and then sc around neck edge ( sc in each begining chain loop); skip one loop on either side of each
shoulder section; chain 34; slip stitch in second chain from hook and in each chain; slip stitch in each sc along
neck edge and then in each of the first 33 chains, fasten off. Knot ends and trim. If desired a second set of ties
can be made on the edges of the 8th or 9th DC row down from the neck edge.
FOR VEST: attach yarn on right side at bottom of arm hole and work one round of single crochet (27 sc in this case)
FOR SAQUE OR CARDIGAN: work sc as above and then work rounds of DC for desired sleeve length. Decrease on last
round by working a decrease at the begining or end of the round. Edge with a round of single crochet. Join and turn
each new round so that the sleeve will retain the same alternating row texture as the yoke and body.
OTHER FINISHING SUGGESTIONS:
When making a cardigan I sometimes work a single crochet button band on one side of the front and a corresponding
sc button hole band on the other.
Crocheted or purchased appliques can be sewn on.
NOTE ABOUT JACKETS:
When crocheting a jacket or vest meant to be worn as an outer garment keep in mind that these will need to be loose
enough and with arm holes and sleeves that will fit comfortably over clothing. A regular cardigan or vest can be
made to fit more closely.
Using different hook sizes or a different yarn ( perhaps baby, sport or worsted weight will result in a different
look and will affect the finished size.) Also, if your tension is tighter or looser than mine this will also
produce a different gauge.Using an F hook and DK wt. baby yarn my gauge here is: 5 DC rows per 2 inches and 5 DC
stitches per one inch.
Anyway, this is basically how I work out basic, plain DC "neck down" raglan garments of all sizes... with
variations on the theme (of course!).
If you are unsure of yourself you might wish to begin by creating vests, cardigans and jackets for a baby doll.
I copied and pasted the above notes from Notepad on my pc and they came out a bit odd. Need to remember to use Word Pad instead!